Callaway Rogue Draw Driver Review

50 Words or Less

The Callaway Rogue Draw driver has huge ball speed and impressive stability.  Substantial draw bias.


Last year, Callaway’s Epic drivers introduced Jailbreak technology, a breakthrough that helped to create more ball speed across the club face.  This year’s Rogue drivers feature that same Jailbreak technology but in more stable, forgiving heads.  Also new is the Draw model, designed to help players tame a slice and produce a repeatable right-to-left ball flight.


The first thing that struck me when I looked down at the Rogue Draw driver was the way the bulge is shifted toward the heel.  It’s a triangular head, as many of Callaway’s more forgiving models are, but it’s not symmetrical – it’s shifted heelward.

Similar to the Epic, the Rogue’s crown shifts from black to carbon fiber.  I like this look: it balances aesthetic interest with the need to not distract the player at address.

Overall, the Rogue Draw is a great looking club.  All the lines are sharp and modern, the branding is clean, and the blue that runs throughout the Rogue line is unique.  The color scheme on the head runs through the stock Aldila shaft and the custom Golf Pride grip, too.

Sound & Feel

The most standout thing about the Rogue Draw driver is the stability.  There’s little feedback in the hands because whether your strike is pure or off-center, the head doesn’t feel like it twists at all.

The sound of the Rogue Draw is slightly hollow with average volume.  It’s not an empty “pop” nor is it a solid “crack” – it’s somewhere in between.  The sound is more solid when you hit the center of the face and more hollow when you miss.


The stability that I felt on mishits was easy to see on the launch monitor.  Mishits retained more ball speed.  Not only that, but the start direction of my shots was incredibly consistent even when my impacts weren’t.

Even more consistent was where the ball ended up.  The Rogue Draw has a fairly heavy draw bias, so, unless you have a serious slice, you can say goodbye to the right side of the course.  As someone more prone to hooks, I felt like I had to wrestle with the Rogue Draw to produce straight shots, but if I wanted to see power draws, all I had to do was swing away.

One other thing to consider when buying a draw biased driver is where you tend to locate your strikes.  Any draw biased driver is going to have the sweet spot toward the heel.  If you tend to strike the toe, this is going to cost you ball speed.  You may find you’re better off with a non-draw-biased driver that’s adjusted to have a closed face.

Callaway is offering the Rogue Draw driver with a variety of stock shaft options.  The Aldila Synergy and Quaranta along with the Project X HZRDUS and EvenFlow are available in weights ranging from 40 grams to 70 grams.


Callaway has done a great job with their Rogue drivers.  The technology underlying each of them is rock solid, and each one targets a different kind of player.  For the guy who needs help keeping his drives off the right side of the course, the Rogue Draw is one of the best their is.  The marriage of substantial draw bias with big forgiveness is a winner.

Buy the Callaway Rogue Draw Driver HERE

Callaway Rogue Draw Driver Price & Specs

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Matt Saternus

Co-Founder, Editor In Chief at
Matt is a golf instructor, club fitter, and writer living in the northwest suburbs of Chicago. Matt's work has been published in Mulligan Magazine, Chicagoland Golf, South Florida Golf, and other golf media outlets. He's also been a featured speaker in the Online Golf Summit and is a member of Ultimate Golf Advantage's Faculty of Experts.

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  1. Hi Matt,
    How is this driver compare to G400 SFT in turns of how much it draws? Saw a few YouTube videos and both of these drivers are recommended for people who slice and one reviewer liked the Rogue better. But then again one of the British reviewer said that the regular Rogue might already be drawing too much for him…
    I am asking because I am fighting slices lately with a regular version of G400 and could use some help.

    • Matt Saternus


      I can’t say definitively because I didn’t test them head to head, but my gut feeling is that the Rogue is more heavily draw biased than the SFT.



  2. I am a fairly straight hitter, but wouldn’t mind a bit of draw. Would the draw driver be too much for me?

    • Matt Saternus


      The short, honest answer is that I don’t know. The draw bias here is pretty strong. I would suggest testing it for yourself, preferably with access to all the different shaft options. The 2 Project X shafts in particular are so different that you might find one over-draws, but the other may be perfect.



    • Hi Andy
      I’m similar to yourself? I’ve found if you make a stronger grip like seeing 3 or 4 knuckels, and before you grip just tweek the head in a fraction, hardly anything, just make your normal swing but exaggerating to swing out to your right if your right handed, and you should have your draw flight right to left, also I know this may sound daft, but stick a light shaft in rather than a regular, swing nice and easy and you will be amazed at the flight and distance you will get.

  3. How does the Rogue draw driver compare with last years Epic that can be adjusted for draw? I have last year’s model, but I have to be convinced that it’s worth doing the exchange.

    • Matt Saternus


      To be clear, I’m not trying to convince anyone of anything, just sharing my view on the equipment I test. To answer your question, the Rogue is much more forgiving than the Epic, much more stable on mishits. Also, anecdotally, I think the Rogue Draw has a stronger draw bias than the Epic would, even with the maximum draw setting.




    Which shaft do you recommend in regular flex? In other words, how do you rate your shafts?

    • Matt Saternus


      I’m not sure what you mean. If you’re asking me to recommend a shaft to you, that’s not something I can do without seeing you in person. We always recommend working with a fitter to find the best shaft for you. All shafts from the major manufacturers are of high quality, so there’s no such thing as a universally “best” or “better” shaft, it’s all about how it fits the individual.



    • I have last years Callaway Epic with a HZRDUS shaft in Reg Flex. My swing speed is 90ish. Absolutely love this club. Feels great and hits straight. Very responsive feel to it as well.

  5. I have the draw Rogue driver 10.5. I have changed to 9.5 and made an adjustment to N. Flight is good however still to much draw. Is there another sitting to help getting less draw?

  6. Thanks for this review. Actually, based on your review, I tried the draw Rogue, and I loved it. Strong draw biased, and one or two on right, and the rest on left and middle. Wow, what a difference this makes!!! I bought it right off the shelf after many test swings. I have a swing speed of 98 and got stiff 50g Synergy shaft, which got me the longest yardage of 250+. Thank you, Matt, for the review.

  7. Craig Simpson

    I have the Epic, i generally hit the ball pretty straight but i have a 2 way miss, high slice or low hook, what would you suggest as the best setting for consistency? Also what is the difference between the sliding weight to draw and the shaft setting to draw?
    Thanks, Craig

    • Matt Saternus


      Using the hosel to promote a draw makes the club more upright. Sliding the weight moves the CoG toward the heel.
      As to your first question, there’s a lot that would need to be unpacked before I could offer any kind of decent advice. For starters, it’s very unlikely that you hit a true slice and a true hook. It’s much more likely that you either hit a hook and a push or a slice and a pull. Knowing which of those it was would be a good starting point.



  8. Craig Simpson

    Hi Matt, Thanks for your response, i do hit a slice or a pull, i also have both settings on draw
    My good drives are either straight or a pull with a slight slice

    • Matt Saternus


      Ok, so I can infer that you have an “out-to-in” path and you tend to hit the heel more than the toe. The changes you’ve made will help to make sure the face is more closed and that the heel shot doesn’t hurt as much. If you like the ball flight you have now, I would leave things as is. Changing those settings will give you fewer pulls but more/bigger slices.



  9. I have to say the Rogue Draw has been like a eureka moment for me. I have always had a tendency to fade, the Rogue has pretty much eliminated it and I have also gained at least 10 metres on my average drive. The best part is that over 30 to 40 drives the spread is no more than 3 metres of my aim point. It really is point and go. I have to say though getting fitted is paramount as I initillay tried a 9.5 set at Neutral with a stiff shaft and it wasn’t as consistent, switched to 10.5 and adjusted to -1 loft and neutral still with a stiff shaft and bingo worked a treat. Can’t reccomend these clubs enough even though more expensive than some other well known brands.

  10. I am an old guy (77), handicap index 22, and have been playing a Ping K15 12 degree driver with a stock senior (A/soft-regular) shaft that compensates well for my typical fade/slice and even allows me to generate a baby draw. The K15 goes straight (or slight draw) most of the time but I have been losing distance so I have been trying a Callaway Rogue Draw driver, 13.5 degrees loft with the Aldila Quaranta Light 40g shaft.

    The Rogue Draw seems to go a bit longer than the K15 but I have a hard time hitting it because the shaft seems too light and whippy even for my slow swing, and the ball typically goes strongly left unless I make a great effort to make it go straight. Do I need to work on my swing or would I do better with the Aldila Synergy 50g light shaft? or perhaps the non-draw Callaway Rogue?

    • Matt Saternus


      Were you fit for the Rogue Draw and the Quaranta shaft? If the ball is going straight left, the face is closed at impact. Switching to the non-Draw Rogue won’t fix that, but a shaft change could help.



  11. I’m thinking of getting this driver. I own a GC2 for personal practice. Driver is the one club I cannot get the face to line up. Everything from 3w down to wedge, my natural in to out swing produces a slight push or push draw. Good shots tend to draw back to my center line but not cross it.

    However with driver, I feel I have to let the clubhead catch up fast. I swing out to in but I tend to get some heel strikes. Ball starts right and goes further right. I would like to keep my normal swing and not have to feel like I flip my hands to get the massive driver head to catch up.

    Your posted numbers are me pretty much spot on. I swing 100-105 mph with driver with about 148-153 ball speed on my gc2. I hit up quite a bit as well. With my Nike Covert 2.0 Tour, I’m usually about 14* launch and 2000-2500 spin. The ball starts right, but goes further right due to slight heel strikes, but even centered hits curve right.

    Ideally, I’d like to continue to swing out to the right but get a little more draw spin. I don’t really want to draw driver per se, I’d actually prefer a nice little push ball where I can aim down the lefthand side and the ball just goes down the middle. Do you think this driver could achieve that? I usually use my Adams Tight Lies Titanium 3+ (13.5) wood. That’s the best fairway wood I’ve ever hit. I carry it generally about 235 yards off the deck and I usually know where it goes–just like my irons (nice high push or push/draw). I can aim at target or even a little left of it. Driver is my worst club because I can never get the head to line up with my swing.

    • Matt Saternus


      Before I worried about a new club head, I would go for a quality club fitting that could match me with a shaft that fit my swing. A good fitter should be able to put you into something that allows you to swing naturally and get a good result.



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