50 Words or Less
The TaylorMade M6 D-Type driver is designed to give players the power of the M6 with some added help with hitting a draw. Noticeable draw bias, especially with the stock shaft.
Despite countless YouTube videos, magazine articles, and Golf Channel instructional shows, the average golfer still hits a slice off the tee. But what generic instruction can’t fix, technology often can. Enter the TaylorMade M6 D-Type driver, a club with all of TM’s latest tech plus a shifted CG to promote a draw.
Check out TaylorMade’s latest draw-biased driver, the Stealth HD, HERE
Per TaylorMade, “The two-tone crown cosmetics have been altered to make the face angle appear more open, resulting in a more closed face at impact.” If you click over to our review of the standard M6 driver (HERE), you can probably pick up the difference. The silver band is thicker near the toe. While TM’s wording sounds counter-intuitive, I can appreciate the thought process: if the club looks open, the player may work harder to close it.
Outside of that, the D-Type looks just like the standard M6 driver. Carbon fiber dominates the address look with small graphics along the trailing edge. The sole also features carbon fiber prominently along with the bold M6 branding.
Sound & Feel
Unsurprisingly, the M6 D-Type driver sounds and feel just like the standard M6 driver. It’s a touch louder than the M5, but the sound is low pitched. There aren’t any metallic notes, which makes for a very satisfying hit.
Again, like the standard M6, the feedback is below average. That’s not inherently a criticism since this is meant to be a forgiving driver. Small mishits sound and feel like flush shots. As stable as this head is, you’ll still be able to identify the big heel or toe misses.
Let’s run through the basics first: the TaylorMade M6 D-Type has all the buzzword-y tech that you’ve come to know in 2019. There’s Injected Twist Face, the “Inertia Generator,” and a Hammer Head slot in the sole. All of these things work together to make this a very stable, forgiving driver. If you struggle to hit the center of the club face, this is worth a look. Like the M6, I found the M6 D-Type to be mid launch and mid spin.
Now, on to what makes the M6 D-Type driver unique from the standard M6. In addition to the aesthetics, weight has been shifted toward the heel to create a draw bias.
My testing experience with this was interesting. I started by hitting the M6 D-Type with a shaft similar to my gamer – low torque, tip stiff. With this set up, I was hitting the ball dead straight. I felt that the sweet spot was a little toward the heel but was confused about the lack of draw. After a few more shots, I swapped in the stock EvenFlow Max Carry and immediately found the draw bias. With this tip soft, high torque shaft, the right side of the course was completely out of play.
My conclusion is this: there is definitely some draw bias in the M6 D-Type, but it’s not extreme. With the stock shaft, you’ll see a strong left side bias. If you tend toward a more stout shaft, the effect will be minimized.
My experience with the TaylorMade M6 D-Type driver reinforced the importance of getting fit for the right shaft to match your swing and your driver. With the stock shaft, this is a club that can offer a lot of help in curing a slice. Changing the shaft will alter its characteristics significantly. Regardless of your shaft choice, this is a solid, forgiving head that will deliver high ball speed even on less than pure strikes.
TaylorMade M6 D-Type Driver Price & Specs
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Just bought the M6 D last month. Was fitted at Club Champion. Great results. Gained 15-20 yards and straight.
Not another $500 club with only little changes from the last $500 driver. As long as sucker golfers keep spending companies will keep tweaking clubs with small changes to justify getting your money.
I’d say it has more changes than not. Totally redesigned so your comment makes no sense
Meh…I’ve hit all the latest clubs…nothing seems to really be that great. Never truly getting the additional 10 – 15 yards, in fact, most are no longer than my 12 year old Cobra ZL driver. And frankly, it’s just a straight as anything on the market. Hate to complain but can’t help feeling that everything that comes out (and so often) is just plain marketing hype. Btw, I play the M3 now, but again, it’s nothing remarkable over what I had 12 years ago.
No driver I’ve hit recently can match what I used to be able to do with my Cobra 350 SS. But that was like 17 years and a bunch of broken bones and surgeries ago. I’d imagine if I could still move like I did in my early 20’s I would see more benefits from the newer tech.
I keep sitting on the fence with buying one of these. My wife plays it and it is incredibly easy to hit, even for her clubs which are generally a cake-walk for me to hit.. She’s fitted with the IZ-4 A which is too soft for me so an extra effort imparts high spinning shots, but still straight. I originally fit in this driver head with the Tensei Orange Pro which I currently have in my TS3 )which I was given over a year ago). DEsite hitting 12 fairways yesterday, I need to be able to gen more speed and hit it further, this may be an answer. Titleist Drivers spin way too much although the TS3 is the least ever for me, I will probably get one of these. It sounds very good and is very/extremely forgiving.
I’ve been playing the M6 D since February and it’s been a surprise. I was playing the M2 (std) and didn’t think I would see much difference, but I was wrong. I was fitted with a UST/Mimaya Proforce V2 R Flex which turned my slight fade into dead straight or a slight draw. My overall SS, ball speed and distance improved. I wasn’t sure about the D model till my fitter recommended this setup. He said it would take away the slight fade and it did. Always get fitted.
I have just bought it, I have not used it but I am looking forward to hitting some balls with it after the lockdown. Thanks for all the comments. I have a slice or fade to the right.
In regard to this club & changing the loft & face angle what does the associated & differing +or – 0-400rpm values mean on each of the differing settings. I also understand(?) that the changing of the Loft angle comes with their own fixed Lie & Face angles that are not independent of the selected Loft?…is that the correct understanding of this adjustability options.
You can find many answers here: https://pluggedingolf.com/how-to-adjust-your-driver/